Force-lasted shoe and method of making it



April 19, 194 J. s. KAMBORIAN FORCELASTED SHOE AND METHOD OF MAKING ITOriginal Filed Sept. 22, 1943 0,; amo al;

Patented Apr. 19, 1949 FORCE-LASTED SHOE AND METHOD-OF MAKING IT JacobSimon Kamborian, Wst'N'ewton," Mass! Original application September 22,1943, Serial No. 503,336." Divided andthisapplicationMa'y 1; 1947,Serial No. 745,285

5 Claims.

Thisinventionrelates to the manufacture offeotwear, the presentapplication being a division of my application ofLetters Patent, SerialNo. 563,336; filed September 22, 1943, for Manufacture of' footwear, nowPatent No. 2,446,286, ranted August3, 1948. While in certain aspects theinvention is'ofbroad'er utility, it is more particularly concerned Withthe manufacture of the so called slip lasted, California, platform orforce-lasted type. In this type of shoe the usual stiff inner sole isomitted and replaced by a thin, soft"and-flexible sole element (commonlytermedthe sock-lining in this type of shoe) customarily of textilefabric and which is stitched directly to the upper prior to lasting. Amiddle or platform sole, usually-comprising a thick, soft and cushionlike elements, semi-sole or platform is cemented to the under side ofthe sock lining, and an outer sole iscemented to the Imdersurface of themiddle sole. provided with a skirt portion, extension, platform orwrapper of flexible material which continues downwardly fromapproximately the" level of thesock lining, and which covers andprotectstlie edges of the middle sole, the lower margin of thewrapperbeing interposed between the middle and outer soles.

One object of the invention is to provide a wrapper constituterespectively a lasting a1low-' ance and a-platform cover. A' furtherobject is to provide a method of making force-lasted shoes wherein theupper material, after assembly with the sock lining and wrapper, andafter the introdiiiction of-the last, is subjected to lasting stress.These and other objects and advantages of the invention will be pointedout more fully in the following, more detailed description and byreferenceto the accompanying drawings wherein Fig. 1 is a perspectiveView of a shoe upper comprising a wrapper of novel construction andhaving the sock lining secured to the Wrapper;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary transverse section through the forepart portionof the upper of Fig. 1, showing the arrangement of the sock lining,upper and wrapper during the formation of the uniting seam, a portion ofthe sock lining being broken away to show the last; and

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary transverse section, to larger scale, through theforepart portion of a The upper is A" furtherobject is to providelastedshoe of the-ki n'd' shown in Fig. 1, themiddl'' and outer solesbeing'attached.

Referring to the drawingsthe numeral I 1 desig'-- nates the upper o'f'ashoe' which, in" Fig. 2; is shown mounted'upon' a last2. This uppercomprises an outer element l which" may be of leather, fabric or thelike, and a lining-l The lining l is cutwith blitflittlelasting'allowan'ce and is secured by the stitched inseam B to the 1margin of a sock lining5- The sock lining may be of any Suitablematerial but is usually-quite thin; as compared'with the conventionalinsole? Usu-- ally this sock lining or thin fie xible insoleis'oftextile fabric or thelike;

The wrapper strip l may be of any suit'ablei material, forexample'likethat of the outerele ment I of the upper, orof'adiiferent'material: For'example if the outer memberl be of'leathei'the wrapper strip 1 maybe of textile fabric or vice versa;

. In uniting the upperwrapper and socklining they aredisposed'as'illustrated in Fig. 2' so that the marginal portion of theuppersurface ofthe insole orsock' lining'and'the outer surface ofthewrapper or platform cover 'Flienext to the inner and outer surfacesrespectivelyof the upper com prising the parts P ano! l The inseamstitching 6 may unite the wrapper to the upper but ashere illustrated aseparate seam t unites the wrapper to the upper; the row of stitches constituting the seam 6 extending along the wrapper intermediateand'substantially midway between the opposite edges of the'latter,thereby defining two fiaps 'I and I of substantiallyequal width;- Theupper flap l functions like the usual wrapper or: platformcover whilethe'lower flap 1 extends down below the in'seam fi and constitutes, ineffect} an extension ofthe upper, functioning as the cus: tomary lastingallowance provided in' making shoes of conventional type.

After the upper, sock lining, and'wrapp'er have been stitchedtogeth'erjthe flap I is employed like the lasting allowaii'ce'in"conventional shoes in applying stress to the upper material, this stressbeing so directed as to tend to draw the seam 6 over the bottom of thelast. This flap i or lasting allowance is then secured by adhesive tothe under surface of the insole or sock lining 5. The middle or platformsole l l is now put in place and cemented to the bottom of the socklining and the other flap I of the wrapper is drawn down about the edgesof the middle or platform sole and its free margin is secured to theunder side of the middle or platform sole, for example by adhesive. Theouter soles S is then attached in any desired manner.

While the single inseam 6 may, as suggested, constitute the sole meansfor uniting the sock lining, upper and wrapper, it is preferred, asabove described, to employ a, plurality of seams.

While the term force-lasted" has herein been adopted as an accurate andcomplete designation, it is to be understood that this term describesany article of footwear of the so-called California, platform,slip-lasted or similar type.

It is to be understood that the invention is not necessarily limited tothe precise arrangement or procedure above disclosed but is to beregarded as broadly inclusive of any and all modifications fallingwithin the scope of the appended claims.

I claim:

1. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a socklining, an upper and a wrapper strip, the stitches which unites thewrapper strip and upper extending lengthwise of the wrapper stripintermediate the edges of the latter, thereby defining a lower Wrapperflap designed to constitute a lasting allowance, and an upper wrapperflap designed to constitute a platform cover, inserting a last into theupper, lasting-in the lower fiap of the wrapper strip over the bottom ofthe sock lining and adhesively securing it in place, applying a platformsole to the bottom of the sock lining, drawing the cover flap of thewrapper down about the edge of the platform sole, and uniting its marginto the under surface of the platform sole.

2. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a socklining, an upper and a Wrapper strip by an inseam which extendslengthwise of the wrapper strip intermediate the edges of the latter,thereby defining upper and lower wrapper flaps, inserting a last intothe upper, applying stress to the lower wrapper flap such as to draw theinseam inwardly over the bottom of the last, securing said lower flap tothe under surface of the sock lining, applying a middle sole to theunder surface of the sock lining, drawing the upper flap of the wrapperdownwardly about the edge of the middle sole and securing its margin tothe under surface of the middle sole, and applying an outer sole.

3. The method of making a shoe which comprises stitching together a socklining and an upper, securing a wrapper strip to the upper by a row ofstitches passing through the upper and wrapper strip, said row ofstitches extending longitudinally of the wrapper strip substantiallymidway between its edges, thereby defining two wrapper flaps, thewrapper strip being so assembled with the upper, prior to uniting them,that the outer surface of the wrapper strip contacts the outer surfaceof the upper and so that one of the flaps of the wrapper extendsdownwardly beyond the seam which unites the upper and sock lining,introducing a last into the upper, applying stress to that flap of thewrapper which extends down below the seam uniting the upper 4 and socklining so as to draw the latter seam inwardly over the bottom of thelast, adhesively securing the last-named wrapper flap to the undersurface of the sock lining, securing a middle sole to the under surfaceof the sock lining, drawing the other flap of the wrapper downwardly andabout the edge of the middle sole and securing its margin to the undersurface of the middle sole, and applying an outer sole.

4. A shoe having an upper and a sock lining, the upper comprising anouter element and a lining, a seam uniting the lining and sock lining, aflexible wrapper strip secured to the upper by fastening elementsextending longitudinally of the wrapper strip substantially midwaybetween its edges so as to define marginal flaps extending in oppositedirections from said row of fastening elements, the marginal portion ofthe upper surface of the sock lining and the outer surface of thewrapper being next to the lining and outer element, respectively, of theupper, one of said marginal fiaps of the wrapper underlying and beingadhesively secured to the sock lining, a middle sole having its uppersurface, intermediate the edges of said latter flap, contacting andadhesively attached to the sock lining, the other flap of the wrapperstrip embracing the edge of the middle sole and having its free marginundenying the middle sole, and an outer sole united to the middle sole.

5. A shoe comprising an upper and a sock lining, the margin of the socklining being folded under to provide two plies, the lower edge portionof the upper underlying and contacting the lower ply .of the margin ofthe sock lining, a strip of flexible material having its midportionunderlying and contacting the under-surface of the edge portion of theupper, a row of fastener elements extending longitudinally of theflexible strip substantially midway between its edges so as to definemarginal flaps extending in opposite directions from the row of fastenerelements, said fastener elements uniting the strip to the edge portionof the upper, a second row of fastener elements uniting the edge portionof the upper to the lower ply only of the margin of the sock lining, oneflap of the strip extending inwardly beyond the edges of the upper andof the lower ply of the margin of the sock lining and being anchored tothe upper ply of the sock lining, a sole member underlying said inwardlyextending flap, the outer flap embracing the edge of the sole member,and means connecting said latter flap to the sole member.

JACOB SIMON KAMBORIAN.

REFERENCES CITED The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

FOREIGN PATENTS Number Country Date 739,356 France Oct. 25, 1932

